Fujian Tulou: Welcome to the Earthen Houses

I first learned the concept of tulou (土楼), or earthen structures, through the captivating Chinese animated film Big Fish and Begonia. The movie features mystical beings that can traverse between worlds by transforming into red dolphins, and they reside in circular houses inspired by tulou. Later, in the live-action remake of Disney’s Mulan, tulou is once again chosen as the residence of the titular character. The unique architecture transports the audience to a different time and space, evoking a sense of wonder and fascination.

In reality, these curious constructions are home to the Hakka, originally a migratory group that settled in the mountains of southwestern Fujian. They developed tulou to fulfill their defense needs against invaders and for communal living. As a result, hundreds of these fortified villages emerged across the region between the 15th and early 20th centuries.

Like a mini fortress, tulou reflects the wisdom and resilience of the Hakka people.

While many Fujian tulou remain untouched relics of the past, 46 properties gained international attention when they were designated World Heritage Sites in 2008. These earthen houses differ in size, shape, and interior. But they collectively reflect the ingenuity and resilience of the Hakka people, whose communal approach to settlement remains functional today.

For the Hakka (客家人), or “guest people”, survival meant being ready for confrontations. That’s why they developed tulou that function as apartment buildings and strongholds. Typically ranging from three to five stories high, these structures often have rectangular or circular layouts with black-tiled roofs over thick rammed earth walls. They were resilient against fire, arrows, gunshots, and even cannonballs. These walls were also easily repairable, consisting solely of natural materials, including mud, sand, lime, and surprisingly glutinous rice.

Although water posed a potential threat to tulou, this risk was mitigated by the extending roofline that radiated outward. Only a large entryway was found at the wall, without any ground-level windows, ensuring that intruders could not easily breach. Furthermore, bamboo strips were implemented for lateral binding to maximize protection, rendering the walls as sturdy as Western castles. Many tulou even incorporated slits in their walls for mounting crossbows or rifles, while others had granite or cobble foundations to thwart digging efforts.

In contrast to its stern and imposing exterior, the inside of the tulou was designed to function as a cozy village, completed with public wells and a spacious courtyard. It is primarily constructed of wood, often without a single nail, and features an inward-looking circular or square floor plan. This thoughtful design ensures that every apartment enjoys ample natural light and ventilation but also provides protection against the elements. At the center of the tulou lies the ancestral hall, which also serves as a mutual ground for meetings and events, reinforcing the sense of community within. It’s usually beautifully adorned with traditional carvings.

Tulou emphasizes egalitarianism and mutual respect.

Unlike many housing complexes that reflect social hierarchy, Fujian tulou emphasizes egalitarianism and mutual respect. Each family owns an identical vertical section of the building, from the ground floor to the penthouse, whereas a large family would have two or three vertical sets. Typically containing two or three rooms, each floor serves a specific purpose: the ground floor is the kitchen, the second floor contains grain storage, and the upper floors feature living quarters and bedrooms. All apartments are equal in size and built with the same grade of materials. Even exterior decorations, from window styles to door ornaments, are uniform.

While all tulou share a similar interior design, each community exhibits features that make them unique. Some include two or three concentric rings, while massive structures like Chengqi Lou can have as many as four. Some more luxurious tulou, such as Yuchang Tulou, enhance the living conditions of its residents with in-house water wells next to the stove for each household. Meanwhile, newer tulou integrate Western elements into the architecture. For example, the Zhencheng Lou, built in the 1920s, proudly displays elegant Greek-style columns and intricate wrought iron railings. These variations not only reveal the creativity of the Hakka people but also highlight their rich cultural heritage.